Japan once had dozens of overnight sleeper trains connecting every corner of the country. Most were retired as the Shinkansen made them unnecessary. But a few survive — and a new generation of ultra-luxury cruise trains has emerged, turning the train journey itself into the main attraction.
The Sunrise Express — Japan’s Last Regular Sleeper
What It Is
The Sunrise Seto and Sunrise Izumo are Japan’s only remaining regularly scheduled sleeper trains. They depart Tokyo every night and split into two trains at Okayama — one heading to Takamatsu (Shikoku) and the other to Izumo (Shimane).
The Route
Departure: Tokyo Station, Platform 9, 21:50 every night Split point: Okayama Station (around 6:30)
| Train | Route | Arrival |
|---|---|---|
| Sunrise Seto | Tokyo → Takamatsu | 7:27 |
| Sunrise Izumo | Tokyo → Izumo-shi | 9:58 |
Accommodation Types
Nobi-Nobi Seat (ノビノビ座席) — From ¥0 extra (base fare only)
- Carpeted floor space with a partition — not a seat, more like a flat sleeping area
- No bedding provided (bring a blanket or use your coat)
- Covered by JR Pass (only the base fare)
- Very popular — book early
Solo (ソロ) — ¥6,600 extra
- Private single compartment, barely wider than your shoulders
- Bunk bed style — upper and lower units
- Door locks for privacy
- Compact but functional
Single (シングル) — ¥7,700 extra
- Slightly larger than Solo with a proper bed
- Window view
- Most popular room type
Single Twin (シングルツイン) — ¥9,600 extra
- Designed for one person but can accommodate two
- Upper bunk folds down
- More space than Single
Sunrise Twin (サンライズツイン) — ¥7,700/person extra
- Two proper beds side by side
- The only room for couples/friends
- Only 4 rooms per train — extremely hard to book
Suite (サンライズスイート) — ¥13,980 extra
- The premium room — desk, sofa, private shower/toilet
- Only 1 room per train
- Almost impossible to get (sells out within seconds)
How to Book
- Reservations open 1 month before departure at 10:00 AM
- Book at any JR ticket office (みどりの窓口)
- Popular rooms (Twin, Suite) sell out within minutes
- Nobi-Nobi seats are easiest to get but still fill up on weekends
- Cannot be booked online for foreign tourists — must visit a JR office in Japan
The Experience
- Depart Tokyo at night, watch the city lights fade
- Shower rooms available (¥330, get a shower card from the vending machine early — they run out)
- Lounge car with vending machines and seating
- Wake up to the Seto Inland Sea (Sunrise Seto) or rural San’in coast (Sunrise Izumo)
- Arrive refreshed, having saved a night’s hotel cost
Tips
- Book Nobi-Nobi seats with your JR Pass — it costs nothing extra and saves a hotel night
- Get a shower card immediately after boarding — there are only a few available per car
- Bring food and drinks — there is no dining car, only vending machines
- Set an alarm — especially on the Seto (Takamatsu arrival is early)
- Friday nights are the hardest to book — try weeknights
Ultra-Luxury Cruise Trains
Japan has created a new category of train travel — ultra-luxury “cruise trains” that cost as much as a five-star hotel stay. These are not transportation; they are mobile luxury resorts.
Shiki-shima (四季島) — JR East
Route: Tokyo and northern Japan (various multi-day itineraries) Duration: 2-4 days Price: From ¥320,000/person (2-day) to ¥950,000/person (4-day)
The most luxurious train in Japan. 10 cars carrying only 34 passengers. Suites have cypress bathtubs and fireplaces. French-Japanese cuisine prepared by a Michelin-starred chef. Stops at exclusive locations not accessible to regular trains.
Twilight Express Mizukaze (瑞風) — JR West
Route: Kyoto/Osaka through western Japan (San’in or Sanyo coast) Duration: 1-2 days Price: From ¥270,000/person (1 night) to ¥750,000/person (2 nights)
Elegant art-deco inspired design. The “Royal Suite” has a private balcony. Routes along the stunning San’in coast offer views of the Sea of Japan.
Aru Ressha (或る列車) — JR Kyushu
Route: Various Kyushu routes Duration: Half-day to full-day Price: From ¥25,000/person
The most accessible luxury train. Ornate gold-and-black exterior. Serves a full-course sweet dessert menu during the journey. Designed by the legendary train designer Eiji Mitooka.
36+3 (ろくもん) — JR Kyushu
Route: Circuits around Kyushu Duration: Full day (various routes on different days of the week) Price: From ¥15,000/person (with lunch)
A more affordable luxury option. Five themed routes exploring different parts of Kyushu. Thursday route circles the entire island. Local cuisine and sake included.
Scenic Sightseeing Trains
Not luxury trains, but specially designed trains that prioritize views and experience:
SL Banetsu Monogatari (SL ばんえつ物語)
Route: Niigata → Aizu-Wakamatsu What: Steam locomotive through mountain valleys and rice paddies. Operating weekends April-November. Covered by JR Pass.
Resort Shirakami (リゾートしらかみ)
Route: Akita → Aomori (Gono Line) What: Panoramic windows along the Sea of Japan coast. Stunning views of the Shirakami mountain beech forests (UNESCO World Heritage). Covered by JR Pass.
Yufuin no Mori (ゆふいんの森)
Route: Fukuoka → Yufuin What: Green retro-style train through Kyushu’s mountains to the charming onsen town of Yufuin. Covered by JR Pass.
Hanayome Noren (花嫁のれん)
Route: Kanazawa → Wakura Onsen What: Gorgeous interior inspired by Kaga crafts — gold leaf, lacquerware motifs, and traditional patterns. JR Pass covers the base fare.
How to Plan a Sleeper Train Trip
The Budget Route
- Get a 7-day JR Pass
- Book Nobi-Nobi seats on the Sunrise Seto or Izumo (free with JR Pass)
- Save one night’s hotel cost
- Arrive in Shikoku or Shimane ready to explore
The Splurge Route
- Book a Single or Twin room on the Sunrise
- Combine with scenic trains (Resort Shirakami, SL Banetsu)
- End with a night at a luxury ryokan
The Ultimate Route
- Book a cruise train (Shiki-shima or Mizukaze)
- This IS your trip — 2-4 days of pure luxury
- Budget: ¥300,000-950,000/person
The Magic of Night Trains
There is something profoundly romantic about falling asleep to the rhythm of train wheels and waking up in a completely different landscape. The Sunrise Express is one of the last places in the world where you can experience this — a night train through a country that moves at bullet-train speed during the day but still keeps one slow, gentle train running through the darkness.
Book it. You will remember it forever.