Kamakura was Japan’s capital from 1185 to 1333. Today it is a small seaside city with ancient temples, forested hiking trails, and a nostalgic local railway that runs along the coast. Combined with nearby Yokohama, it makes the best day trip from Tokyo.
Morning: Kamakura’s Temples
Start at Kita-Kamakura Station (Not Kamakura Station)
Most tourists go straight to Kamakura Station. Get off one stop earlier at Kita-Kamakura. It is quieter, and the best temples are walking distance from here.
Engaku-ji Temple — A major Zen temple right at the station exit. The morning light through the maple trees is extraordinary. Arrive around 8:30 AM when the grounds open.
Kencho-ji Temple — A 10-minute walk from Engaku-ji. This is the oldest Zen training monastery in Japan. Walk to the back of the grounds and climb the steps to the Hansobo Shrine — the view over Kamakura is worth the climb.
The Great Buddha (Kotoku-in)
The 13-meter bronze Buddha has been sitting outdoors since a tsunami washed away its temple hall in 1498. For ¥50 extra, you can go inside the hollow statue. Almost nobody does this — it is a strange and fascinating experience.
Getting there: Take the Enoden railway from Kamakura Station to Hase Station (3 stops). Walk 10 minutes uphill.
Hase-dera Temple
Right near the Great Buddha, this temple has panoramic ocean views from its hillside terrace. The garden is beautiful in every season, and there is a cave with carved stone figures that you can walk through.
Midday: The Enoden Railway
The Enoden is a tiny, charming railway that runs from Kamakura to Fujisawa along the coast. It squeezes through residential streets so narrow that houses are just meters from the tracks.
The famous spot: Between Kamakura-Koko-Mae and Shichirigahama stations, the train runs right along the beach. If you watch anime, you might recognize the Kamakura-Koko-Mae crossing — it is the famous scene from Slam Dunk.
Ride the Enoden to Shichirigahama for lunch. The restaurants along the coast here have ocean views and fresh shirasu (whitebait) — a Kamakura specialty. Try shirasu-don (whitebait rice bowl) at any of the beachside restaurants.
Afternoon: Yokohama
From Kamakura, take the JR Yokosuka Line to Yokohama (25 minutes). Yokohama is Japan’s second-largest city, but it feels completely different from Tokyo — more relaxed, more cosmopolitan.
Yokohama Chinatown
The largest Chinatown in Japan, with over 500 shops and restaurants in a compact area. It has been here since 1859.
What to eat:
- Nikuman (steamed pork buns) — Walk around eating from street vendors. Each shop has its own recipe
- Peking duck — Several restaurants serve excellent versions at reasonable prices
- Egg tarts — The Chinese-style egg tarts here are famous
Minato Mirai Waterfront
A 15-minute walk from Chinatown brings you to the modern waterfront district.
- Red Brick Warehouse (Akarenga) — Historic warehouse converted into shops and restaurants. The outdoor space facing the harbor is perfect for photos
- Cup Noodles Museum (¥500) — Create your own custom Cup Noodles with your choice of soup and toppings. Surprisingly fun for all ages
- Osanbashi Pier — The international passenger terminal has a wooden rooftop deck with panoramic views of the harbor and city skyline. Free entry, and spectacular at sunset
Evening: Yokohama at Night
Yokohama’s waterfront at night is arguably more beautiful than Tokyo’s.
- Landmark Tower Sky Garden (¥1,000) — The observation deck on the 69th floor gives you a 360-degree night view
- Noge Area — A retro entertainment district with tiny izakaya bars. Much more authentic and affordable than Shinjuku or Shibuya
Getting Around
From Tokyo
- To Kamakura: JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo Station (57 minutes, ¥950)
- To Kita-Kamakura: Same line, get off one stop before Kamakura
Kamakura to Yokohama
- JR Yokosuka Line from Kamakura to Yokohama (25 minutes, ¥350)
Yokohama to Tokyo
- JR Tokaido Line or JR Yokosuka Line to Tokyo Station (25 minutes)
- Tokyu Toyoko Line to Shibuya (30 minutes) — convenient if staying in west Tokyo
Enoden Day Pass
- Enoden 1-Day Pass (¥800) is worth it if you ride more than twice
Best Seasons
- June — Hydrangeas at Meigetsu-in Temple (Kita-Kamakura). Called “Ajisai-dera” (Hydrangea Temple), it draws crowds but is genuinely beautiful
- Late November to early December — Autumn leaves at the Zen temples
- Any clear day — On clear days, you can see Mt. Fuji from Shichirigahama beach
Tips From a Local
- Skip weekends. Kamakura’s narrow streets become unbearably crowded on Saturdays and Sundays. Weekday visits are dramatically better
- Eat shirasu only in season. Fresh shirasu is available roughly April through December. Off-season, you will only find frozen — still good, but not the same
- Walk Komachi-dori carefully. The main shopping street from Kamakura Station is tourist-oriented and overpriced. The side streets have better food at lower prices
- Combine with hiking. The Daibutsu Hiking Trail connects Kita-Kamakura temples to the Great Buddha through the forest. It takes about 90 minutes and avoids the main roads entirely